Balmy trip to Norway...including gluten free eating

At the beach on the Oslo fjord in Norway

Oslo, Norway

The Scream by Edvard Munch.

MY HERITAGE:

I am an American of Norwegian and Swiss descent (as in my family came here around 1900, so we are only 4 or 5 generations of Americans).  I grew up hearing my grandparents speak Norwegian and eating Scandinavian foods (in the Midwest- Wisconsin, Minnesota, and the Dakotas, especially have TONS of Scandis)and you could buy this stuff in any grocery store.  Every wedding had polka music/dancing, my grandfather played the accordion, and rosemaling was ubiquitous.  When I moved to Southern California after college (where Mariachi bands and Southwestern food is common), for the first time, nobody could pronounce my last name and I couldn't find lefse in the supermarket.  It was the first time I realized that my Scandinavian customs were not common throughout the U.S.  There was a dearth of Scandinavian people where I lived, and it was a culture shock.

PURPOSE OF TRIP:

Having already traveled to Switzerland, I've always had a desire to look up my roots and go to Norway.  I'm glad I waited to try Ancestry website, because now there is so much on my family tree (painstakingly researched from my relatives, no doubt)!  I did a bit more digging and found that my great-grandma's farm where she grew up was near Lillehammer and she also lived in Bodø, a fjord area.  So, my Marine and I took a week (while we are still on the E Coast, closer & less jet lag) to visit Norway.  (In preparation, we watched the acclaimed Lillehammer series on Netflix- about a New York mobster who ratted and chose to relocate to Norway since he remembered how beautiful the women and country were from the Lillehammer Olympic Games on TV).

THE BASICS:

I've always heard about and believed Norway's fjords should be on every traveler's BUCKET LIST.  This trip reaffirmed that!  Plus, had I known it would be between 65-76 degrees F, I would have gone much sooner!  The long hours of sunlight were fantastic, since (unlike the U.S.) museums were open past 5PM, and parks with sculptures until 11!  It was a tourist's dream.  Well, except for the price.  Norway is one of the world's richest countries (it didn't go in for the whole Euro thing, and avoided the whole financial crisis), and it is quite pricey.  To stay at airbnb in one room of someone's home it was $125/night (incl taxes,fees), and a tea was $6, and chicken fingers at TGIFridays were $33 (we didn't get them).  But, Norway is the most efficient place I've ever traveled (everything on time and easy to navigate- perhaps because it's lead by a woman, lol)!

ITINERARY:  Flew to Oslo (museums,Syttende Mai parade, fjord, ferry to peninsula for more museums, parks) for a couple days, then Norway in a Nutshell*highlight- recommend the comfort car upgrade*train/flomsbana/ferry tour to Gudvagen (Naerefjord and Sonjefjord), 1 hour bus to Voss (1 night motel stay on fjord), then kayak one day on Hardangerfjord/Eidfjord *highlight*, then 1 hour bus to Bergen (gem city, known for Rainbow-row like beauty and rain, great shopping,dining,*funicular tram, *Lungegardsvana Park) for a couple days, then take $20 flight back to Oslo for last night before home. 

*CAN'T MISS!

FJORDS:  The fjords were majestic, dynamic (constantly changing views as you moved along past one folded ridge to reveal a waterfall, etc.), and they just called to be photographed.  The 2-3 hour fjord cruises and Norway in a Nutshell (a must-do tour that combines a train and ferry- buy minipris for discount) were the first time I've been somewhere where EVERYONE is taking pictures constantly, without sitting down.  As soon as you see a waterfall, then it's gone (another fold in the landscape or a tunnel on the train closes the view like a curtain) so you have to be quick, but then there are up to 200 waterfalls on a fjord, so you just catch the next one.  There are green layers of trees below snow-topped layers, and hamlets/villages (with grass-roofed houses) in-between.  Kayaking on the fjord was something I will NEVER FORGET.  It was a "pinch-me" moment.  The waterfalls were so numerous, and the landscape was so gorgeous.  Fjords are narrow, so you are surrounded by the beauty, 360 degrees.  It was so warm out, but on one of the scenic train stops as the train ascended, it was snowy and people were skiing.  We threw snowballs and saw a dogsled team running.

ODDITIES:

• reindeer pelts for sale
• ski-skaters 
• Røss- high school graduation right of passage 3 week spectacular participants all over

• natives rarely dine out in resaurants, so they are mostly empty, even in downtown of cities and our host said that's what he envies the most about Americans, eating out cheaply and frequently w/friends

• police- they don't carry guns
• shower/washing machine bathroom setup: small, weird to have it all together w/shared floor
• grass (turf) roofed houses
• although there was some graffiti in cities, it was very clean (compared to Europe in general)
• efficient lockers, even see-thru ones at museums everywhere to store your stuff while you tour
• we never had to wait! when we got off a ferry, the bus was waiting there, for example.  Everything is VERY efficient and you don't have that "hurry up and wait" feeling common to travel.  There are tunnels to make travel through the watery fjords efficient, and even the rural roads are wide enough for tour buses.  Plus, there are no "siestas" or poorly-timed business closings tourists find annoying and they have dinner early, like Americans do 

LANGUAGE:  I had taken 10 Norwegian lessons, but the Norwegians all speak perfect English and were perplexed as to why I would attempt to speak Norwegian when they spoke English so easily (efficiency culture).  The language, although Germanic, sounded sing-songy and very lovely.  People were shocked to hear me say even the smallest phrases in Norwegian, but I could tell my pronunciation was not up to par.  They did assume my Marine (a red-head) and myself were Norwegians and would be surprised when we spoke English, especially in non-touristy areas.

GLUTEN FREE DINING:

OSLO:

Of course, I loved BAKEFRI, the 100% gluten free bakery/deli in Oslo.  I ate gluten free waffles every day (they eat them cool with brown cheese ((very popular, I loved it! Tastes like butter with a kick)) or jam) and danishes, cakes, sandwiches (freshly baked gf baguettes), quiche, brownies, and soups.  You can pre-order gluten free lefse.

Peppe's Pizza was a tourist trap, but alas, they had gf pizza.  It was ok.  $40 for a personal size pizza.

Burger King- had gluten free burger buns and preparation, a whopper alone was $15, but yummy.

Cafe Celsius- Lovely, upscale outdoor dining in the perfect 70 degree weather- a few gf menu notations-gluten free mussels with sauce, gf chocolate mousse, and strawberry sorbet.

*many museums and cafes had gluten free cakes, muffins, and desserts and most Norwegian people had a good understanding of what gluten free is and which foods were gluten free.

GUDVAGEN- after the fjord ferry cruise from the Nutshell tour, there is a store and cafe, where you eat right on the fjord and they had gluten free chicken, rice, and salad plate.  What a pleasant surprise.

BERGEN:

Baker Brun- the chef whipped up a made-to-order sandwich (I chose shrimp and cucumber) on gluten free bread with poppyseed crust- yummy!

Pengvinen- hipster/quirky affordable Norwegian food restaurant with 3 or 4 gf menu options: horse, whale, etc.  I got the whale (to try Norwegian fare) and it was tasty, but chewy.  A little went a long way.  My bf had the fish stew and enjoyed it, but he said he still prefer's Shepherd's pie (he is of Scottish ancestry).

Bryggenstuen- upscale, traditional interior- you can request to sit upstairs for a great view of fjord- I had a burger on gf bun, and my bf (not a celiac) had a gluten burger and we both got sick.

Rimi supermarket- had LOTS of gluten free foods that I stocked up on to take with me during the museum days and the airport/flight home, such as ham, Schar buns, brown cheese, a fake gf Kit-Kat.  We often had picnic lunches at our favorite park, Lungegardsvana, where there was often music playing and a lovely fountain and scenery.

SIGHT-SEEING:

Oslo:

SYTTENDE MAI 200th Constitution Day Parade and Celebration:  We saw the royal family and the parade of children dressed in the traditional bunads (similar to Scottish kilts, the designs vary by region).  Norwegians eat lots of hot dogs (often wrapped in lefse instead of buns) and ice cream on this day, and eat out in restaurants (which is not common in everyday life).  Little girls in the parade had dolls dressed in matching bunads, which was so cute.

Akerhus Fortress- active military installation- dungeon, church, canons, ancient swords, military museum, WWII Resistance Museum

National Gallery:  "The Scream" by Edvard Munch and lots of big-time artwork (Norway $$$)

Opera House- it's shaped like an ice berg and you can walk on top of the exterior of the building- it has a restaurant in there, too.

Bygdoy Peninsula (by 20 min ferry):  Folk Museum *STAVE church, wow!!, an outdoor museum of real buildings from different regions& centuries relocated to this site for all to tour

Viking Ship Museum- 3 well-preserved actual Viking ships that had been buried in funeral mounds with Viking people for use in the afterlife.  Their burial in mud preserved them perfectly since 700-900AD to be dug up in 1960's in a farmer's field!

Akerbrygg- bar/restaurant strip on water with grassy areas, benches, and small beach

Cathedral on Karl Johan Plass

Vigeland Park- lots of giant, nude sculptures, open till 11PM.  We saw Night Ravens- citizen patrol that were made fun of on Netflix show (Norwegian police do not even carry guns!)

Røss- Teenagers (high school seniors) ride around in custom, theme-painted party buses and walk around drinking (age 18 can drink wine and beer) and handing out silly photo "business cards" in a 3 week pre-graduation celebration (this was also on Netflix show Lillehammer)

Finse- stop on train where there was snow, dog-sledders, skiers

BERGEN:  (we were lucky it only rained lightly a few hours one day!  It's notorious for rain, but it's the most beautiful city!  It's on the water and the houses are so lovely, like a more prolific, earth-toned version of Rainbow Row in Charleston)

shopped at Bergen District- Norway famous for wool sweaters/snowflake designs, we bought a reindeer pelt-- apparently if you tour in winter you can hike & camp and they are super warm

saw a church still standing from 702 AD

saw WWII communication hideout

Hanseatic Museum- cool to see origianal ROSEMALING on walls (see link above)

Funicular tram- AMAZING view overlooking the city and fjord.  

Saw everyone swimming and using tinfoil "grills" to have barbeques in the park

saw opening of Music Fest with "Sissel" the singer from Lillehammer Olympics&hip hop dancers

Kode Museums (Four different buildings) with tons of Edvard Munch art, furniture, silver, etc.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

We stayed at an airbnb with a 24 y.o. native Norwegian kid in Oslo.  The stylish flat was in a great location near the Sentral Station.  We walked everywhere.  The bathrooms in homes in Norway were small and contained a small washing machine.   The shower doesn't have an enclosure, just a curtain, and the floor is just the bathroom floor. Since they have no clothes dryers, they always have clothing drying in the living room.  Our host, Fredrick, was very nice and answered all of our questions about Norway and Norwegians.  He did, however, have lots of guests to his flat, so we wished we had known we would have to share a bathroom with that many people (we wouldn't have chosen to do so).

In Voss, we stayed at a hostel, but it was $175 a night and what Americans would call a "motel".  It was ON the fjord with a STUNNING view.  We were glad to have our own private bathroom.  The complimentary breakfast smorgasbord was all organic and delicious in the awesome panoramic-windowed breakfast room.  Close walk to and from the bus.  We also saw people ski-skating!

OUR OPINION

We LOVED the trip!  We want to go back and see the Lofoten Islands and Northern region, with more Russian influence, reindeer, and the Northern Lights.  The kayaking on Eidfjord, Nutshell tour, Bergen funicular view, fjord waterfalls, and bunad parade surpassed any expectations we could have had.  The people were straightforward and efficient, as expected, and the food was better than we feared.  We LOVE waffles and brown cheese!

I was disappointed that I didn't get to eat gluten free lefse, see my grandma's farm, or buy the bunad that we were able to identify in a bunad boutique that has to be custom made for me ($4,000 minimum for the embroidered wool outfit).  I think I might try to get my mom to make me a knockoff, since I have a catalogue of my great-grandmother's regional design now.  The scenery was breath-taking and the weather was so perfect!  The only ways it could have been better was if the people were more talkative with tourists and the prices were cheaper.

http://www.moreintelligentlife.com/blog/norways-bizarre-teenage-rite-passage

Friday {Re}flection

My apologies for skipping last week, but we put in our notice to move out and so the landlords have been bringing strangers through this house we rent.  They raised the rent a few hundred dollars for the next would-be tenants and have set lofty expectations of it in the ad so it hasn't been taken yet.  (When I saw the ad, especially the photo taken from afar so that flowering bushes appear to frame the house, I was like, is that the house where we live??)  I dislike having strangers walk through my house.  I wish the landlords would place a fair market and realistic price for this 1960's home so the madness can stop.  Alas....



The beginning of May included the neighborhood ladies' annual brunch, hosted potluck-style at a neighbor's house in her lovely backyard.  Being gluten free and health-conscious, I brought Jell-o in little goblets, and was able to partake in the grits, fruit, and shrimp with cocktail sauce.  The ladies turned up on this warm day in bright springy clothing and it was nice.  I wore an almost flourescent maxi dress with a retro headband across my forehead.  My fine hair goes slack in the humidity, but what to do?

Brunch dress.  Love the dress, it's almost flourescent with pockets and a tribal braided belt.  Not sure about the headband, but my boyfriend likes it.  Sorry, I am not photogenic.  I look so annoyed, lol.

There seems to be a social divide between the ladies who have lived here many years and the ones who have only been here a few years like us.  I met a fun, nice, young professional mom who works for Cartoon Network who said I reminded her of an adventurous friend of hers.  I enjoyed talking to her.  Upon seeing the others and being asked repeatedly where we are being stationed next and telling them about house-hunting in San Diego got really annoying, but oh, well.  Everyone reacted positively about San Diego, but I must say some people showed facial expressions (my law enforcement background at work here) that revealed a sort of envy in a bad way, as if I had inadvertently "one-upped" them or highlighted the mundanity in their own lives.  Thankfully there were a few secure and balanced ladies who seemed genuinely happy for me.  I had wanted Hawaii or Europe, so San Diego was not my first choice, so I was not trying to one-up or brag.
My Marine took me down the road to the annual Lemonade Days in Dunwoody, Georgia.  They had a nice veteran's monument with a glass atrium of flags representing each military branch.  As soon as we walked into the tentapalooza area, someone shouted my Marine's name, and it was a retired USMC General whom we have come to know during our time here through his and my Marine's community involvement.  I felt the need to do a self-check to make sure I was dressed in a non-embarrassing way (no cleaveage, etc.) and was relieved that I was.  I scarfed down a caramel apple (gluten free, very fresh) and we listened to a really good band of gray-haired rockers play acid rock classics.

In anticipation of my upcoming Europe trip, I stayed up one night researching my family tree and ancestry to 7 generations in Norway and found my great-grandma (who died when I was 10 or 11)'s great-grandma's farm near Lillehammer.  It was cool to see some names on the census showing they had come on a boat over here around 1890.  There were a couple guys named Hans and lots of farmers, which I already knew.  Growing up, I heard my grandparents speak some Norwegian, but I never learned it.  I've been taking Norwegian lessons and I was surprised that I was actually able to read some Norwegian text online, for example in the book of farms listing.  My other half is Swiss, but I've already been to Switzerland.  Very clean and beautiful with Alpine mountains, lakes and timbered houses.

In Norway, we are planning to try out airbnb for the first time, see the jaw-dropping fjords, the Viking historical stuff, Edvard Munch's The Scream, the royal palace and a big festival with revelers in traditional attire, practice speaking Norwegian, and possibly visit a glacier and do some hiking or kayaking.  The temp will be 40-60 degrees, hopefully a welcome relief after the 85 degree humidity we've been having in Georgia.  We chose Norway due to my heritage (my Marine has already been to the countries of his ancestry) and because we wanted to explore a country that is new to both of us.

Me and my bike (picture taken in Virginia)

We hiked at Sweetwater Creek (see blog post here) and we have also gone to ride our bikes on the Silver Comet Trail.  I ride my black and pink beach cruiser with 3 speeds, ringing my bell when I pass children.  Seth has a fancy, expensive, high-maintenance triathalon style road bike that has the weird valves.  Last year we found a great air pump that converts to fit both types of tire valves.  Love it!

In preparation for our pcs (move to California), we've been taking out stuff from the attic and donating things to Goodwill.  I have some "nicer" clothing that I wanted to try to take to a Consignment Shop and PSYCHO SISTERS consignment went through the summer items and chose 6 things and wrote me a check for $42.  Not bad.  Now, maybe I'll try to sell some handbags online....
It's been hot and sunny, so I've been laying out at the pool.  I avoid tanning my face, but since we moved to Georgia my doctor told me I was Vitamin D deficient so I actually need sun.  I'm tan already and I've met some fun people.  My boyfriend (a ginger, aka fair, redheaded man who does not tan) joined me on Sunday and it was nice.  We have heavy duty SPF for him, and there was an umbrella.  He actually gets sunburned through the windshield in his car.
I also took advantage of a complimentary massage at the gym.  She kneaded me to relaxation!

Mother's Day Gift Scarf

Mother's Day Gifts- I mailed them.  We bought them awhile back at an art festival.  We often get the same thing for both of our moms, since they both like jewelry and handmade items.  One year we got them interesting bracelets made from fancy buttons, and this year we got them each a "scarf" that is made out of ribbony fabric.  We avoid buying them dust-collecting knick knacks and they don't really like spas or lotions.  Both of their birthdays are coming up, and I may make them paintings (I dabble in black ink sumi-e) or paint a ceramic serving dish my mom requested.

I have been a little slow this week, as I ate something (possibly gluteny?) that bothered my stomach earlier in the week.  My boyfriend has been out of state at a conference, so I'm looking forward to his return.  I have kept up my 5x/week workouts, including a 5 mile run on the indoor track and a 5 mile hike with the hiking group at Lake Alatoona this week, where afterward we ate lunch at Swheat where I ate gluten free chicken tenders (a bit dry, but a tasty honey-mustard sauce) and sweet potato fries.

May has several birthdays and other important events in my life such as:
+Military Spouse Appreciation Day May 9 (see my blog post here)
+Celiac Disease Awareness Month
+Teacher Appreciation Day (as a former teacher, I enjoy saluting other teachers)
+Syttende Mai (Norwegian Constitution Day- the second largest celebration in the world is in +Wisconsin where I have family, I also used to teach my students about our language, food, music, history, and traditions)
+Mother's Day
 +Memorial Day (where we plan to attend a local Veteran's celebration where the guest speaker happens to be a retired General who actually bought my Marine his sword as a prize for being the best at something when he was commissioned into officerdom).  Small world.

This weekend, my Marine gets back and hopefully he won't have to work too much.